18 June 2009

Unbridled or what?

Why is it when you have a 'shop full of half decent machinery, you always want to look for a way to use it? Fair enough, you might say...if you've got the kit, you might as well take advantage of it! But the problem is that with teak...you can't.
Case in point, I need to make four more or less identical rectangular frames, with bridle joints at each corner. I like bridle joints, they're relatively easy to cut and are quite decorative, which in my book is worth including on piece, so I marked out the wood, cut each to length on the tablesaur (note...with a tct tipped blade) and then shot them in accurately with the LN No9 on the shooter. I then used a mortise gauge to mark out the lines but pondered how to cut to them...bandsaw or by hand?
Bridle joints are the easiest thing in the world to cut with a decent, sharp blade on the bandsaw...set it up and away you go, about two minutes at the very outside for a joint.
But this is teak...and I've got a new 'meat & fish' blade on the saw that would be reduced to a gibbering wreck inside five minutes of constant use.
There was nothing else for it but to use my LN carcase saw to cut them out completely by hand, which as events turned out, was quite enjoyable as I hadn't done anything like this for a couple of years as the last time I did anything in teak was when I made this. The joints needed a little bit of careful fettling to go together but by the end of the evening I was reasonably happy with the finished frame.

One down, three to go...but at the end of this project I'll need to refresh myself on how to sharpen a tenon saw.


Anonymous said...

Hand tools rule, OK :-)

Cheers ;-)

Paul Chapman

The Village Carpenter said...

The most difficult wood I've ever worked is Wenge. It was tough on my handplanes for sure. I had to keep resharpening and wiping the sweat from my brow!